Hanging Jewelry Organizer

The main structure for this organizer is pretty simple; you just need a couple 1x3 boards, a decorative aluminum screen, wood screws and stain.

The screen will be the most expensive part, and price varies depending on pattern and size. The piece I used was leftover from another project, but brand new was $16 for a 24”x36” sheet in a Union Jack pattern.

You will also need picture hanging hardware if you want to hang it on the wall, S hooks and cup hooks, and if you have one, a staple gun with staples 1/2” or less (this is the easiest way to fasten the screen to the wood, but you can also use screws). If you are trimming the screen to a different size you will also need tin snips.

I made my organizer with two layers of wood, with the screen sandwiched between the two. This picture is of the top layer, consisting of the frame top, sides, shelf*, and bottom. The second (back) layer is mostly the same, except the sides run the full top to bottom and there is no shelf board on the back. **My cut dimensions are below.

This should make more sense in the following pictures.

*I used a scrap 1x4 for the shelf to give me a little more space, but the size is up to you.

**My cut dimensions: (all boards I used were 1x3 [actually 11/16” x 2 3/8”] furring strips EXCEPT for my shelf, which was a scrap 1x4 [11/16” x 3 5/16”]. Please adjust your measurements based on your wood thickness and size variations.**)

-screen: 21”x24”

-front top, bottom and shelf: 23”

-front sides: 20 1/4”

-back top and bottom: 18 1/2”

-back sides: 25 3/4”

FINAL DIMENSIONS: 25 3/4” T x 23” W x 4” D

All the boards were cut, sanded, and stained. I used a mix of Minwax Dark Walnut and Early American.

After everything dried, I arranged the back layer on a flat surface and then stapled the screen onto it. Take your time with this. The boards aren’t attached to each other yet, so carefully line up the screen and place several staples along one board, then go to the board on the opposite side, pull the screen taut and staple. Then do the other two boards. Because the vertical sides were the long ones on the back layer, I started with those, and then did the top and bottom.

This screen is super thin and bends easily, so you need to make sure it is tight and does not have much wobble.

Next, I put the entire top layer on, lined it up carefully, and clamped the top and sides in place.

Next, I piloted and screwed from the bottom of the shelf into the bottom of the sides. This way there are no visible screws on the front of the organizer, and it is easier to line up than trying to go through the back into the shelf.

After the shelf is secured, clamp the bottom board in place and flip the whole thing over to screw through the back layer into the front. You will also add your hanging hardware. I used rings, but you can also use saw hangers or hanging wire.

Here is what the layers should look like.

Time for finishing touches. The S-hooks are used to hang necklaces and can be positioned wherever you need them on the screen.

I added cup hooks to the bottom board and bottom of the shelf, and use them to hang bracelets, watches and rings.

Hang earrings through the screen.

Getting my jewelry out showed me how many pieces were tarnished and need to be cleaned. 😬

Here is my final jewelry organizer! I still keep my nicer jewelry in a box, but now my “everyday” jewelry is out where I can see it.

Some variation ideas:

-Spray paint the screen and hooks in any color you want. The frame could also be painted instead of stained.

-Lean it against a wall or make a back support (like a picture frame) if you live in an apartment or don’t want to add holes in the wall to hang. (This would work best with a smaller version or one without the shelf so it doesn’t have as much weight.)

-If building a frame is too much for you, buy a pre-made wood frame, remove the glass and back, and glue/staple the screen into it.

I’d love to see pictures of your version!