How to Build a Wood Laundry Table

We had about a 10" gap behind our machines because of the way the dryer vent was installed. That gap was pretty ugly and stuff was always falling back there. PLUS, the outlets and water hookups just added to the list of things I hated looking at in there.

I had to figure out a way to improve this. If I had a wall on both or even 1 side of the machines, I could have just installed a removable top over my machines.

BUT, I decided to build a table since I wanted a removable option that could also hide the left sides of my machines.

I built this Laundry Table using 2x2 legs and 1x2 rails to connect them.

I drilled 1 Kreg Jig pocket hole on each end of the 1x2's, then used wood glue and the Kreg screws to join the 1x2 to the top of each leg.

If you look closely at the picture, I used a lattice board under my 1x2 to hold it 1/4" back from the front of the legs. That setback on the rails always looks pretty on a table.

Ignore that rough looking wood, I used wood from an old project because I knew I was painting mine. :)

My exhaust vent blocked the leg on the right side of the machines. But since it's hiding between the machines and the dryer, I could easily move the leg up on that side without anyone seeing it.

On the left side of my machines, I have a low bench. So, I designed that side to hide the machine sides and the ugly gap behind the machines.

Your Laundry Table build may need to be adjusted a bit to work around all of those cords, outlets, piles, plugs, and exhaust vents. Every Laundry Room is different.

AND Laundry Tables are different than other tables. It has tall legs that make it wobbly. But you probably can't steady the legs by connecting them along the back because of all the pipes , cords, and vents. And, you can't connect them along the front. Adding a lower 1x2 to connect the legs on the left and right does help add some stability. But, you'll probably better off designing the table to partially sit on top of the machines, to fight the wobble.

I did that by attaching adjustable feet to the bottom of my legs.

On just the left side, since it's visible, I extended the side down with a 1/4" plywood panel and cove moulding detail around the frame.

The top is 3/4" Maple Plywood from Lowes. I applied Edge Banding to the plywood edges to make it look like solid Maple. Edge Banding is really easy to apply with just a normal iron. The glue on the back of it is activated by heat that makes it stick right on to the plywood edge.

I used Danish Oil to stain the top because you can easily wipe on the finish with a rag and it dries pretty fast. It also slightly hardens wood as it dries, for extra durability, and it doesn't require an extra topcoat. But, I did apply a couple coats of poly too, because it is a high traffic area, so extra protection is a good thing. :)

You can find more tips about making a Laundry Table and see more of my Laundry Room on my site.